Tag Archives: France

A Foodie’s Guide to a Week in Paris

Name a city you’d rather be whisked away to than Paris. Go on, think about it – I’ll wait. Whether you’ve never been to the City of Light or you’re there so often it’s practically your second home, Paris never fails to disappoint. There is always something new to discover and (likely fall in love with) hidden among the city’s rambling streets, gardens, and bustling cafes.

Lucky you (and me), there’s also never a bad time to go to the city. Paris is magical no matter the season—if you’ve never been you might want to avoid going in August when the city basically empties, although there’s something to be said about feeling like you have the whole city to yourself—especially for foodies who will find culinary delights at every turn. The next time you find yourself in Paris let your stomach guide you around. Think of this foodie guide to a week in Paris as your rough itinerary; after all, one of the best things about the city is the unexpected surprises you’ll find.

 

Getting there + where to stay

It’s so easy to get to Paris it’s almost as if the city is inviting you to come. You’ll find flights from all major cities (from NYC, it’s possible to find nonstop roundtrip flights for less than $500). Once there, between the public transportation, taxis, and your feet, getting around is a snap, but depending on how familiar you are with the city and what you want to do, I’d stay in either the  2nd Arrondissement (full of cafes and shops and the charming Hotel des Grands Boulevards), the 1st Arrondissement (full of attractions), or the 7th Arrondissement (Eiffel Tower).

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What to do in Paris (that isn’t necessarily about food)

Throw your Paris game plan out the window. The city is all about wandering. Here are a few places to start:

The 3rd Arrondissement: This historic district is a must-visit for trendsetters. You’ll find everything from fancy boutiques selling high-end designer clothes to musty antique shops.

Take in the Eiffel Tower at Dark: OK – it’s super touristy but no matter how many times I’ve been, I always make a point of stopping and appreciating the Eiffel Tower at dark.

Buy a book at Shakespeare and Company: Just do it. The English language bookshop is straight out of a fairy-tale.

Walk Along the Seine: Get a little lost strolling by The Seine. Explore the bridges, walk around the Tuileries Garden, and take in Monet’s “Water Lilies” at the Musée de l’Orangerie.

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A foodie’s guide to Paris

From Michelin star restaurants to hole-in-the-wall creperies to melt in your mouth croissants, Paris was made for foodies. Here’s where to eat and drink:

Les Vignerons Parisiens: You can’t go to France and not spend some time learning about and tasting wine. This urban winery makes its wine on site (most of the grapes are from France’s Rhone Valley).

Café Oberkampf: Don’t be fooled by the exterior, this unfussy coffee shop has one of the best brunches in all of Paris. Anything you order off the small menu will be incredible.

Take a Cooking Class: There’s no better way to take Paris home with you than by learning how to cook like a Parisian chef. Try La Cuisine Paris for an éclairs class or learn how to cook from ingredients picked up at a Paris market with this Market Visit and Cooking Class with a Parisian Chef class.

Pierre Hermé: Buy macarons for all your friends at home (it’s ok if you accidentally eat them all).

Marché Bastille: Give yourself plenty of time to explore Marché Bastille. One of the biggest markets in Paris, you’ll want to visit on Sunday morning if you can. You’ll find the largest and  freshest selection of freshly picked fruit such as strawberries, tons of baked goods, pungent cheeses, and so much more.

La Fontaine de Mars or Chez l’Ami Jean: Make sure you have at least one old-school French bistro meal while in Paris. Go on and order the escargot.

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Bonhomie: Settling into the blue leather stool at this welcoming cocktail bar you’ll feel like a 1940s movie star.

Le Mary Celeste: For a mid-day or late-night snack this fairly new restaurant is great for sharing small plates over a bottle of wine or cocktails.

La Crêperie Bretonne: Bet you can’t order just one crepe from this neighborhood spot that has been dishing up some of Paris’ best crepes since the 1930s.

Top 5 Pains Au Chocolat in Paris

Crisp upon crisper layers of puff. Firm, dark chocolate in every bite. Buttery flakes of pastry that melt on your tongue…but then, Stendhal famously said, “Pleasure is often spoiled by describing it.” Experience the nuances of the perfect pain au chocolat on this tour of Parisian patisseries that promises an array of interpretations for your sweet tooth. French pastries are really just mouth art because from one chocolate croissant to the next, each one will bear the distinctive signature of its chef. One thing is certain: they’ll all be sublime.

 


 

1. bread & roses

62, Rue Madame | 75006 Paris | 01 42 22 06 06

Before or after a visit to the gorgeous Luxembourg Gardens, enjoy one of the few organic bakeries in Paris. Situated right outside the gardens, it’s a patisserie with the kind of tearoom you can easily sit in for hours. And naturally, enough pastries to keep you busy for just as long. But, you know what you came for, so start with what many deem this the #1 pain au chocolat in the city.

 

Bread & Roses

 


 

2. Du Pain et des Idées

34, Rue Yves Toudic | 75010 Paris | 01 42 40 44 52

Those seeking the “simple yet intense happiness with something as simple as a piece of bread,” will appreciate the pastry chef’s attention to the craft of time-honored methods found here. Dating back to 1889, original interiors transport you to a Paris of a different time. Named the best French bakery in Paris by Gault & Millau gourmet magazine in 2008, it’s more than just its elegant ambience, though; it’s the pain au chocolat that locals and globetrotters avow is the best of the best.

 

Du Pain et des Idees

 


 

3. 134 r.d.t.

134, Rue de Turenne |  75003 Paris | 33 1 42 78 04 72

While the rule of thumb with most Parisian bakeries is to arrive early, this simply appointed boulangerie in fact does have the locals lined up at dawn’s break. Located in the charming medieval streets of Le Marais, the place is busy all day (including the daily flock of Parisian children who swarm the place afterschool for their French pastry treats), so be prepared to wait a bit. It’ll be worth it when you behold the exquisite feuilletage (flakiness) of the pains au chocolat here.

 

134 r.d.t.

 


 

4. Gérard Mulot

76, Rue de Seine | 75006 Paris | 33 1 43 26 85 77

One of the most celebrated patisseries in all of Paris, the bliss of this establishment begins before you even enter the front door. Have your camera ready to snap some of the most gorgeous pastry displays in all of Paris. Positively architectural confections beckon you to a veritable Shangri-La of tarts, cakes, éclairs, caramels and of course, pains au chocolat. Of all the selections on this list, this one boasts the deepest, richest dark chocolate within its flaky layers.

 

Gerard Mulot

 


 

5. Des Gâteaux et du Pain

63, Boulevard Pasteur | 75006 Paris | 33 1 43 26 85 77

Another photogenic entry, this beautiful bakery is amongst those known as a bijouterie, owing luxuriant interiors reminiscent of a luxe Parisian jewelry shop. After you absorb the visual splendor, sample the pain au chocolat that makes our list for being airy, and if it’s possible, the lightest version of this delicious classic pastry.

 

Des Gateaux et du Pain

Images courtesy of Damaneke Santiago

Explore Lyon, France: Green Spaces, Gourmet Food, and Red Wine

The sweet scent of freshly baked croissants hits your nose the moment you wake up; the narrow streets are already warmed from the morning sun; and the city is already alive with the sound of commuters. This is Lyon, France — the capital of the stunning Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. If you’ve a few days to spare, here are some tips on exploring this fine city.

Getting Around the City

Surrounded by looming steep slopes, the center of the city is surprisingly walkable, so long as you have a decent pair of shoes. However, there are many faster ways to get around that won’t cost you a fortune too.

The Lyon City Tram is just €9 for a day pass and will take you around some of the hotspots of town. There’s just one drawback — it does feel a tad “cheesy.” After all, both this and the guided bus tours offered in the city are heavily structured and planned. That means you only get to see the points of interest that have been picked out for you. It’s not exactly an authentic experience.

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Without a doubt then, the best way to truly see and take in all that Lyon, France has to offer is by bike. The moment you set foot here, you’ll notice that cycling is a massive deal. The Lyonnaise are famed for their love of this mode of transport. Luckily for you, you can hire a Grand Lyon bike for just €1.50 from Vélo’v, although you will need to make an account on their site ahead of time.

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Relaxing in the Lyonnaise Sun

Head to the city between May and August, and you can all but guarantee brilliant sunshine on a daily basis. The fact that this region is far from the coast means that you don’t get that sharp breeze to break up the heat, though. Needless to say, you’ll need to take the time to relax during the warmest hours of the day, if only to conserve energy.

While much of the area is urban and bustling, there are a couple of quieter spots where you can pass the hours and perhaps indulge in a picnic. Fountain Morand, just near the riverside, is a popular spot in which to unwind. Surrounded by florists and cafes, the sun hits this area at the peak of the day, which is also when it tends to get busy.

For those lazy afternoons, though, there’s genuinely only one place you ought to visit. The Parc de la Tête D’or is the city’s major green space and, as such, it’s one of the most frequented by the outdoorsy Lyonnaise too. The ample greenery here makes for a stunning space in which to unwind. What’s more, there’s a botanical garden to explore and even a small zoo. The latter is free to enter and has everything from brightly coloured flamingos and monkeys to a large male lion who sits atop his mount regally.

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Brunching, Lunching, and Dining

Often called the foodie capital of France, the city of Lyon certainly packs a gastro-punch. Many a book has been written on the fine-dining eateries that this area has to offer and you could even argue that there’s too much choice. Still, here are a few highlights and tips that will get you started on your gourmet journey.

Brunching

We’ll start with the most important meal of the day and, frankly, everyone’s favorite — brunch. You really needn’t go far to find a small dish to start your day off. On almost each and every street, you’ll find a brimming bakery or quaint cafe where you can sit, relax, and have a light bite to eat. As the culture dictates, there’s no need to rush this affair.

lyon in france
If you happen to fancy a morning ramble, L’Instant is just about a kilometer from the River Rhône. Be aware that much of that distance spans an ultra steep slope. It’s enough to wake you up. Once you’ve reached the patisserie in the heart of a small local square, you won’t be disappointed. Freshly-made pastries, macaroons, and bread adorn the window space and the bohemian vibe of it all will lift your spirits. For just €6.50, you can get a set-meal consisting of a sweet pastry, strong coffee, and some fresh fruit juice.

french food

Lunching

As you wander the city streets, there are plenty of eateries where you may well want to grab a quick bite. The heat will likely mean that you can’t face a heavy dish, and so it may well be worth grabbing a baguette or, indeed, a pizza slice on the go. Each of these savoury treats will set you back no more than a few euros per piece.

There’s also plenty of opportunity for a hearty, sit-down meal too. The traditional saucisson et pommes (sausage and potatoes) dish is simple, yet moreish. This low-cost meal originates from the nearby countryside, but has been souped up somewhat over the years. It makes for the ideal lunch dish and you can find it in most of the pubs and cafes around the center of the town.

Dining

As the sun sets and the streets get a little cooler, it’s time to warm yourself up with a gastronomic experience. This is where Lyon excels. The city is renowned for its extensive range of Michelin Star and Michelin Guide restaurants. You don’t need to spend an arm and a leg to sample some delicacies for yourself.

Tucked away on a side street in the centre of town, you’ll find Le Nord. The authentically French brasserie may look a tad intimidating at first glance, with its fine dining aesthetic and well-dressed clientele. And yet, it offers an incredibly reasonable three-course set-menu for just €26.90, which changes with the seasons. From delectably tender guinea fowl to duck terrine, there’s something for every taste.

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Drinking

Wine lovers rejoice; in the city of Lyon, the vin is always flowing. Of course, there are many hideouts where you could grab a glass or fillette (mini carafe) of your favorite grape, but one you may just adore happens to be Bar Le Florian. This place is open until 3:00 a.m. and serves a decent bottle of Hautes-Côtes De Nuit for just around €30. Sitting on the terrace by candlelight with the beautifully retro bar as your backdrop is a memory you will never forget.

lyon france

Places You Have to See

Finally, if sightseeing is your game, there are a couple of places that you may well want to check out for yourself. Surrounded by gorgeous winding gardens, visit the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Be warned: the walk up to the building itself is a long one and especially tricky if it’s a warm day. It’s worth it, though. The spectacular religious monument is home to an impressively large crypt, several prayer rooms, and a main space packed with art and sculptures.

Just a little along the street from the Basilica, you’ll find the Ancient Theatre of Fourvière — an amphitheater that plays host to concerts during the summer. You can go and visit the outdoor venue anytime you please too; and if you’re at the top of the hill anyway, it’s worth a quick look. Standing at the top of the steps here, you get a simply awe-inspiring view of the city as a whole. Oh, and selfie-lovers, it’s also the perfect photo opportunity to boot.

lyon, france